Ten things I learnt walking Hadrian’s Wall Path

A couple of weeks ago, I trod the Hadrian’s Wall Path in northern England from the east coast to the west coast. All 135km (84 miles) of it, walked in six days, passing through two cities, Newcastle and Carlisle, and following sections of ancient wall that had been built some 2,000 years ago to keep the marauding northerners out. It’s a walk I’ve wanted to do since I first arrived in the UK 15 years ago so to finally get round to doing it was pretty incredible.

Here are 10 things I learnt:

  1. The first and last day of the walk are not the most inspiring – there is a lot of flat, monotonous pavement pounding and virtually no wall. In Newcastle you also get the added bonus of graffiti, dog poo and dumped rubbish. If you like that sort of thing then this part of the walk is for you but I have learnt I am not a huge fan. That said, Emperor Hadrian would be well impressed with the quality of infrastructure along these sections.

2. The old wall is really quite something to behold – I mean really you could just argue that it’s a stone wall. But it’s 2,000 years old and in really good nick! This really is five-star quality construction that stands the test of time.

3. The best part of the walk is the middle two days – From the turn off after Chollerford, the word to use is spectacular. This is where history buffs will drool. Great long stretches of intact and well-preserved wall, as well as the ruins from forts, mile castles and towers. Then there was the scenery – barren, flat wilderness to the north with that big, remote feeling, and to the south, gently rolling hills and a road in the far-off distance.

For the most part the wall trundled up and down along the ridgeline so the legs and lungs got a good work out. There was one part where there was a dramatic sheer cliff and a long drop below. It’s easy to see why Hadrian built the wall here.   

And for film buffs, this part of the trail passes the famous Sycamore tree that features in the film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves. It’s really quite cool.  

4. The walk has something for everyone – it’s an incredibly varied trail from road walking to rolling countryside. There’s the River Tyne, that you follow through Newcastle, which becomes increasingly delightful as you leave the industry behind, and then the River Eden through Carlisle and followed all the way to Bowness-on-Solway. There are woodlands, fields of new-born lambs and wildflowers (springtime obviously), a pine plantation, rolling hills, vast plains, ups and downs, that tree from Robin Hood Prince of Thieves, farms dotted in valleys, quiet villages, big cities, salt marsh, cow pats and agricultural pong. Oh yeah, and a really really old wall. And did I mention that tree from Robin Hood Prince of Thieves?  

5. Having walked the length of New Zealand does not mean walking Hadrian’s Wall will be easy – New Zealand was challenging while Hadrian’s Wall is described as one of Britain’s easiest national trails. That does not mean it will be easy. And easy it was not. The flat bits are nice because they are flat but a mixture of Covid slovenliness and lack of fitness, a 13kg backpack, a very strong headwind and shoes that were intent on destroying my feet meant Hadrian’s Wall was not the walk in the park I expected it would be. Hard is relative – what’s hard for one person may not be hard for another – but while Hadrian’s Wall was no Raetea Forest it was a challenge all the same.

6. Sore feet can kill a walk – I don’t know what was up with my shoes but they decided to make my feet and the walk a misery. The pain can only be described as excruciating – and it wasn’t even blisters. I was popping painkillers and I couldn’t even stop and stand still because I was in so much agony. Needless to say there were tears and I was well and truly pissed off. I spent so much time trying to walk through the pain that I didn’t enjoy the walk as much as I should have and I feel gutted for that. Lesson learnt – I won’t be wearing these shoes on any future long-distance walks.    

7. A leaking tent can be a real dampener – It’s usually a good idea to take a tent that doesn’t leak but sometimes you don’t know that it leaks until it rains. We learnt the hard way. It only rained for a few hours but it was pretty hard – and the drips were right on my forehead. I ended up sleeping underneath my raincoat. The next morning the underside of my sleeping mat was pretty sodden, as was part of my sleeping bag. Lesson learnt – we won’t be using this tent again unless no rain is 100% guaranteed.  

8. Entrepreneurial opportunities abound – Hadrian’s Wall Path is a relatively new trail, only officially opening in 2003. It’s generally well set up for B&B slackpacking but it’s more challenging for campers, and while there are several quaint little villages to walk through, pubs, eating establishments and shops are harder to come by than I expected. We were lucky to have dinner one night, only just getting to a tea shop before they closed and then learning they were the only place in the village that sold food – the options for dinner were either two-minute noodles, canned soup or chocolate bars. We went with soup.

As we headed through the county of Cumbria, there were a couple of pop-up snack shops purely for the benefit of walkers. No attendant, just a wide array of snack foods, a kettle and an honesty box. Absolute genius. There was also at least one campsite set up for walkers. The one we stayed at was basic, just a compost toilet and no shower but that’s all you need. This ingenuity reminded me of the Te Araroa Trail and the host of trail angels that provided these sorts of services for walkers. Not only is it a lovely thing to do but also a great little money earner. The scope to provide more of these along Hadrian’s Wall Path and to cater for walkers, particularly campers, is huge.   

9. Cheese lasts about five days tops – The downside of walking life is the bland and dry diet due to the logistics of carrying everything. My go-to for lunch is cheddar cheese in wraps. It’s not particularly exciting and becomes unpalatable after about day two but it does the job. We went with pre-grated cheese in the zip-lock bag so we didn’t have to fuss with cutting chunks of cheese off a block. I can attest that cheese in this form lasts five days tops. On the fifth day it looks dodgy and unappealing and has a very interesting tang.  

10. Don’t listen to landlord about bus times – We got into Bowness-on-Solway, the finish, in plenty of time before needing to catch the bus back to Carlisle and, of course, once a long-distance walk is finished it’s mandatory to celebrate with an alcoholic drink, of which we did – in the bistro because the pub was closed. I had checked the bus timetable at the bus stop on arrival. The last bus, it said, was 5:15pm. But you never know with these small villages whether this information is accurate so I thought I’d check with the landlord. He said the bus left at 5:30pm. Hmmm, that’s interesting. We decided we would leave early to see if a bus did indeed arrive at quarter past five and low and behold it did. It never returned to the village at 5:30pm. Was the landlord trying to scam us, knowing that if we missed the last bus and got stranded there we would have to stay at his (probably very pricey) accommodation? Who knows but it’s a good lesson to keep in mind.

Recommended food stops – because eating what you like on a long-distance walk is one of the perks:

Liosi’s Sicilian café bar – west of Newcastle city http://liosiscafe.com/

The Ship Inn – Wylam https://www.theshipinnwylam.co.uk/

Dingle Dell – Heddon-on-the-Wall https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g1653233-d4363221-Reviews-Dingle_Dell-Heddon_on_the_Wall_Northumberland_England.html

The Riverside Kitchen – Chollerford https://www.theriversidekitchen.co.uk/

House of Meg – Gilsland https://houseofmeg.co.uk/ Hadrian’s Wall Snack Shed – Newtown https://hadrians-wall-snack-shed.business.site/

Days 45-55 of #WalkNZ part 2 – The Clent Hills, Two Thumbs Range & Te Araroa’s highest point

20200219_140531I have now walked just more than half of the South Island of New Zealand on part 2 of #WalkNZ. 

More than 650km.

Woozers!

That explains why the tread on my shoes is looking a little bald and why I’m now slightly obsessed with food.

The past 10 days have provided some of the best highlights of the trail – wild West country and the greatest sense of remoteness so far, super wild camping spots, the highest point on the Te Araroa trail, a stunning ridgeline walk with views to New Zealand’s tallest mountain Mt Cook, and a 55km bike ride. Continue reading

Why perfection is a self-limiting belief and counter-productive for goals

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Twelve.

I had twelve fricken blisters. Twelve annoying, excruciatingly painful blisters; twelve little swollen mounds of encapsulated liquid intent on ruining my life.

I sighed, staring at them glumly.

The fact none had popped was beside the point. They were there on my feet, in places I didn’t know you could even get a blister.

And that one between my big toe and second toe, which stretched down and around onto the ball of my foot – on both feet, I might add – well that was the mother*****r of them all.

Nasty bloody blisters.

It was the end of week two on my #WalkNZ adventure where I was attempting to solo walk the 3,000km Te Araroa trail down the length of New Zealand to show that self-doubt doesn’t have to hold us back from achieving something incredible.

And I was in a world of pain. Continue reading

Why comparing yourself to others stops you from being awesome

I was in Taumarunui, New Zealand – Day 68 and 1,032km into #WalkNZ.

I was just sitting, eating breakfast, really just minding my own business when the Dutch Te Araroa trail walker sat down next to me and proceeded to interrogate me.

“How many kilometres are you walking a day?” was his first question as he tucked into a juicy peach. Continue reading

Starting is the hardest part – the secret to starting

It was a two-hour drive to Cape Reinga for the start of #WalkNZ, my 3,000km solo walking adventure along the Te Araroa trail down the length of New Zealand.

Dad drove. Mum sat up front. I took the backseat, staring out the window as a diverse landscape whizzed past the car windows.

Thoughts also whizzed through my head.

Thoughts that asked me what I was doing, what I hoped to prove. Thoughts that questioned my sanity, my physical and mental ability.

Thoughts that probed to the depths of my soul about whether I was really ready and good enough to take on this epic trail all by myself, with no experience and extremely limited training.

I was scared. Petrified of failing and doubting everything.

And then the what ifs started – what if I got caught by the high tide and I got stranded and couldn’t get to the campsite tonight? What if I got lost? What if I couldn’t put my tent up by myself or it blew away? What if there was no water supply at the campsite? What if I couldn’t get my camp stove to work? What if I’m totally out of my depth? What if, what if, what if… Continue reading

Vlog 1 of the #normalisefailure campaign

It’s been three months since I last did a vlog (you can see them on my Facebook page here) and boy was it a little bit scary. What if I stuffed up or sounded stupid? Could I really do it? Was I good enough? What if people didn’t like it or thought I was an idiot? What if I failed?

And that, my friends, is the whole point of my #normalisefailure campaign; to recognise that failure – as it is generally known in a negative way – is a normal part of being human. And yet so many of us – myself included – are scared of it and its implications.

For this reason, I’m seeking to normalise failure. Every week, I’m going to review what I’ve “failed” and publicly put it out there on my social media for the world to see. And then I’m going to congratulate myself on failing, note that the world hasn’t ended, and see if there is a different way of looking at it.

It’s sort of like keeping a gratitude diary but in reverse. For me, it’s about shifting my thinking from fearing failure and beating myself up about it to being proud of it.

So here, in all its cringe-worthy glory, is my first vlog. Follow the campaign with the hashtag #normalisefailure

 

 

10 things I learnt about self-doubt walking the Te Araroa Trail

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I’d just returned to Auckland after being forced to push pause on my #WalkNZ adventure after injuring my knee at the 2,000km mark.

I was catching up with friends and family and one friend asked me: “So how’s the self-doubt? Do you think you’ve conquered it now that you’ve walked 2,000km down the length of New Zealand?” Continue reading

Life after the Te Araroa Trail: Re-entry into society and post-adventure blues

20190414_115546On the outside I look normal.

I’m wearing jeans and a t-shirt – clothes I bought from a fashion, non-outdoors store. My body smells perfumed and clean; my hair, washed and shiny. Black pencil lines my eyes. There is red rouge on my cheeks.

My tan has faded while my muscles retreat behind a new cuddly layer of fat.

For all intents and purposes, I look like a regular run-of-the-mill person. Certainly not someone who has walked 2,000km of the 3,000km Te Araroa trail down the length of New Zealand.

But outside appearances can be deceiving.

Because inside me, long-distance trail walking oozes through my blood. My legs twitch. I dream of solitude and lonely mountains, the gurgling of streams, the feeling I get from walking uphill or busting out more than 4km an hour along a flat stretch of road.

The inside and outside are opposites of each other. I feel off kilter.

I’d been warned about “re-entry” to society after finishing the Te Araroa Trail. Like the rest of the trail, nothing can quite prepare you for it. Continue reading

Why pushing pause on #WalkNZ doesn’t make me a failure

20190309_095443Three weeks ago, I had to turn around and walk back into civilisation when poor weather conditions and a dodgy leg forced my hand and I couldn’t make it over the second highest point on the Te Araroa trail.

I ended up in Hanmer Springs, a spa resort town in the South Island of New Zealand, for a week, eating a lot of food (notably the spectacular cinnamon swirl buns from the local bakery) and visiting two local physios a total of three times about my bung leg.

The intention was always to get back on the trail.

But when a week rolled around and the leg was no better, it was clear I needed more time off. As it was, I couldn’t see how I could walk for eight to ten hours everyday on it on the trail when after a mere 15 minutes of strolling I was in pain and hobbling (and that was without the beast of my backpack on).

It posed something of a dilemma. Continue reading